Our van had seen better days but my partner tackled each bend as if auditioning for a car commercial. My stomach was firmly clenched as we edged a little too close to the cliff-edge during every dramatic twist in the road.
Just as I was wondering why we hadn't bought a sat-nav, the road levelled out onto a flat and fertile lowland on which in some prehistoric time the ocean had rolled. As the sun was at its highest, we faced landscapes that had taken trillions of years to form. With mountains on all sides, Europe's natural beauty was staggering. Read more about Exploring the Balkans