There is only one horse race in the world that can be won without a rider, but not without a headdress. Steeped in rich, often bizarre tradition, this July dash around Siena’s Piazza del Campo is a unique experience. Unless you go to the one in August as well, that is. If you go to either, you will join a throng of 50,000 sardines packed into the middle of the square to witness 75 seconds of chaotic, heart-palpitating action.
That’s how long it takes the 10 horses to hare three times around the 339-metre ‘circuit’. Each carry the colours and symbols of their ‘contrade’ – Siena’s passionate and partisan districts, each represented by their own mighty icon: dragon, eagle, she-wolf, tower, caterpillar (yup) and so on.
Since the race’s current form was established in 1656, no less than 23 jockey-less horses have triumphed – and plenty more thrown their riders on to the square’s dust-covered cobbled stones.
Make sure to arrive early enough to get prime location at a corner spot. And by ‘early’, I mean in the morning. The race doesn’t start until twilight, however, so bring plenty of sun cream and water. Take note: I wouldn’t recommend overdoing the latter, because there are no loos inside the square. Best not be caught short five minutes before race time.
Despite the wait, you won’t be short of entertainment. The pre-race pageant offers a wealth of festivities, varying from young men in tights throwing flags to the spectacular charge of the Carabinieri, swords aloft.
The race itself might last for only just over a minute, but anticipation ripples throughout the city for the weeks before. For the full Palio experience, arrive at least four days beforehand and see the six trials, where 10 equally matched horses are selected. If you play the right cards, you might even be invited to attend one of the many open-air dinners put on by the contrade.
Finally, witness the blessing of each horse in Siena cathedral – the only time when defecating in a holy building is encouraged (in the name of good luck). That’s just for the horse, however. I wouldn’t recommend trying it yourself.