It's desert war. My sheet slaps me in the face, my eyes begin to sting and the rest of my bedding gets chucked around me. Groping for my torch, I surrender to the sand and wind, and drag my mattress back to the protection of the tents. Sleeping on top of a sand dune under the stars and moon seemed like the perfect way to round off a memorable day in the desert. But to get any rest, I have to be content to drowse off to the sound of camel grunts in the shelter of the Berber camp.